SELECTION OF UNDERLYING IN BESPOKE GARMENTS
Jul 11, 2020 GKFTII
The term bespoke or custom, tailoring describes garments made to measure for a specific client. A bespoke garment is one that has been crafted almost entirely by hand based on a pattern made exclusively for the customer by a skilled cutter. It requires a series of fittings and is always fully canvassed. Its aesthetic details (and, to an extent, overall fit) are subject to the customer’s preferences,and the only machine-work is done on long seams (such as trouser outseams) and facings.
Using different techniques to create a garment requires more than the usual amount of time, attention to detail, and patience. Your efforts will be well rewarded by a long-lasting garment that fits perfectly.
To many, “tailoring” suggests sewing meant only for “experts.” Yet, tailoring is just a refinement of standard sewing procedures. Classic tailoring does, however, require more than the usual amount of detail work, including pad stitching lapels and the under collar, lining, precise fitting, and emphasis of figure lines.
A successful tailored garment begins long before a stitch is sewed - with an understanding of pressing methods, fabric choices, and the special fitting requirements of tailored styles.
An ironing board and a steam iron are, of course, standard equipment; in addition to these, a tailor’s ham is needed to press shaped areas. Although a sleeve board is not absolutely necessary, it can be very useful during tailoring. Other valuable pressing aids include the seam roll and press mitt. When pressing the right side of fabric, always use a press cloth to prevent fabric shine. To produce additional steam, use a dampened cloth, but allow that pressed area to dry before handling. Avoid pressing seams so flat that their edges mark through to the right side of the fabric.
Selecting a pattern
When selecting a pattern for a tailored garment, choose one that suits your style and matches the other items in your wardrobe, as you will be investing many hours of work in your tailored garment. If possible, select a pattern designed for tailoring; that way, all the necessary pattern pieces, such as separate under collar and lining, will be included.
Selecting garment fabric
After choosing your pattern, select a fabric that is appropriate for the style. You may want to consult the pattern envelope for fabric recommendations. Keep in mind that wools and wool blends shape and mold well when pressed and are thus excellent choices for tailoring. Other suitable fabrics include firmly woven linens, double knits, and heavy silks. Limp fabrics cannot generally be molded or shaped and so are poor choices. When purchasing fabric, be aware of fabric nap (print or pile) if any, and busy yardage (meter age) accordingly.
Selecting Underlying Fabrics
To give the tailored garment adequate body, and to maintain its shape, the garment fabric must be used in combination with various underlying fabrics. These fabrics include underlining, interfacing and lining; interlining is sometimes used for additional warmth. Each of three underlying fabrics must be carefully selected so that when they are combined, the garment will look natural and not be unduly stiff.
Underliningis attached to the wrong side of the garment fabric before the garment units are connected. The underlining help maintain the shape of the garment as well as supplying additional strength and durability. However, the use of underlining is rare today. Although most underlinings are light weight, they can still very in fiber content and in the type of finish (soft, medium, or crisp). Select the one that is most complementary to the garment fabric and is similar in color; also consider its care compatibility.
Underlining Purpose:The purpose of underlining gives support and body to garment fabric and design, Reinforce seams and other construction details. Give opaqueness to garment fabric to hide inner construction, inhibit stretching, especially in areas of stress. Act as a buffer layer on which to catch hems; baste facings and interfacings, fasten other inner stitching.
Different type fabrics sold as underlining can be light to medium in weight, with a soft, medium, or crisp finish. Other fabrics not specifically sold as underlining such as China silk, organdy, organza, muslin, batiste, lightweight tricot (for knits) can be used.
The selection criteria of underlying should be relatively stable and lightweight color and care should be compatible with garment. Underlining colors should not show through the garment fabric. Finish (e.g. soft, crisp) should be appropriate for desired effect.
Interfacing provides support and shape in designated areas such as collar, lapels, upper back and hem line. Interfacings are available in different weights, fiber contents, forms (woven and non-woven), type (fusible and sew-in), and decrease of crispness. For tailoring, a woven hair canvas is often best, as it shape wells. Select a hair canvas of a suitable weight for the garment and of good quality (usually with goat hair content and a balanced wave of even-sized warp and weft yarns).
Interfacing Purpose: The purpose of interfacing support, shape, and stabilize areas, edges, and details of a garment reinforce and prevent stretching. Increase the life of a garment.
The use of interfacing entire sections of garment such as collars, cuffs, waistbands, plackets, flaps. Specific garments areas such as the front, hem, neck, yoke, armholes, lapels, vents, pockets.
Fusible interfacings:woven, non-woven, weft-insertion, or knit type, with resin coating on one side. They are fused to garment fabric using an iron and steam or a damp cloth.
Sew-in interfacings:Woven or non-woven, they are attached to garment fabric by basting (or gluing) when a fusible type is unsuitable. All types can be light, medium, or heavy in weight.
The selection criteria should give support and body without overpowering the garment fabric. Care and weight selected should be compatible with the rest of garment fabric. In general the interfacing should be slightly lighter than the garment fabric. Fusible interfacings, especially firmer grades, tend to add some rigidity to fabric.
Liningthe last fabric layer to be attached conceals the inner construction of the garment to give a clean finish on the inside. The lining lies next to the skin, so a smooth, silky fabric is usually recommended. Lining are available in different fiber contents and in arrange of weights from light to heavy. Choose a lining that is of a proper weight and is compatible, in care requirements, with the other fabric; it should also be sturdy enough to withstand normal garment wear. Since the lining is usually visible, its color should match or be coordinated with the garment fabric.
Lining Purpose:To cover interior construction detail. Allow garment to slide on and off easily.
The use of coats, jackets, dresses, skirts, and pants, in their entirety or just partially.
Different types of Silky lightweight fabrics of viscose or bemberg rayon, acetate, silk or polyester are used as a lining.
The selection criteria should be smooth, opaque, durable. Weight, color and care should be compatible with rest of garment. An antistatic finish is desirable,